Boogie boards and me do not go way back. I was in my twenties before I saw waves of any size. Sure we went to anahiem when I was a kid to visit disney world and my dad took us to see the ocean but it was a bay yet he said it was the ocean and it was - but it wasnt THE ocean. Remember we are from the sunny dryness of new mexico and I guess He didnt want us to drown so I guess you gotta give him credit for that at least, and well, I do. So years go by and I find myself 27 or so years old in california on a job paid for by people in new york who flew us there, NY my home for the previous two years my first 2 years, any way we are on a job photographing old surfers from the 60's, for some wierd trade magazine, well my friend was photgraphing them, I was along for support and as a liason and as an assistant and to have fun on this trip. This wasnt the usual assisting situation since we were old college roomates, friends or whatever and we were like some little production team. Anyway we are at La Jolla Beach below this cliff along a NUDE beach, but it is like in the AM, I wanna say 5 am just to sound knarly but it was more like 6 or 7 and there were a few topless elderly out, any way this beach was below a cliff and that is the coolest thing I had ever seen - ever - and the waves were awesome. I was using the waterproof camera in that bulky yellow case thing, a boogie board and a full body wetsuit that belonged to one of the 60's dudes that he loaned me. Many firsts here. 1) first time in a wetsuit. 2) first time with a boogie board 3) first time with the waterproof bulky thing 4) first time in big waves.I got trashed! all the photos are from me clicking away while trying to stay alive as I get pummeled from every single wave, and all you see is water and the occasional sky. Not one single picture of these guys in the water. I made it my mission to get used to waves after that. Many other wave adventures since then....some scary, most fun but none as terrifying as that very first time.
Me and the Guy checked it out for his first time at Robert Moses beach, small waves that broke on shore.
7 comments:
Cool. Always wanted to try that. Kinda prefer pools though. Salt water and critters that bite yer leg off, not cool.
If it's fun, do it! Trying different sports and hobbies can be fun and educational!
lol! this is my worst nightmare. literally. i have recurring nightmares about gigantic waves pummeling me.
I am such a chicken shit...I would never do this...I've watched shark Week too many times!
But I commend you on your bravery...that's cool.
So many wave stories to tell but the best are going to be with my little guy, it is such a warm feeling to see him doing things, any thing.
i love la jolla...we went there to scuba dive in the little cove...what a rich-ass town too.
damn.
twenty years later after La jolla (wow time does fly) and I can feel my aching muscles even more now, its tuesday and we went on saturday and even though they were little breakers they bounced me around quite a bit and I am just getting over the soreness.
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